Got the starter in today. Whomever installed it the last time must have used an air ratchet to tighten it down...had to pull out the 24" breaker bar and 9/16ths impact impact socket to break the bottom bolt loose. It's all good now; RD had clocked the starter on the mounting flange and it all went together just fine. Just to protect the leads, used a light coat of penetrox (which I use when building antenna installs on towers to prevent corrosion; it says it's good for CU/AL, AL, and SN connections, so, thinking it's just fine for what we use it for...)

Needed to freshen up all the power connections; pulled a lead off to carry the 12V up along the bundle so I have a place to provide power for my remote start switch (the white/red lead for the starter solenoid was modified with a Y lead for the other lead off the remote button). Cleaned up the wiring at the coil side, and behold, the tach started working properly rather than bouncing around. Amazing what fresh crimp connections on tinned leads will do for connection goodness. Yes, I know about embrittlement of solder on copper, etc. Takes years though...so, like using galvenized versus stainless piping for the radiator transfer pipes...it will be an issue long after I'm sitting on the porch in my bathrobe yelling at kids to get off my lawn...lol.

Next up...VCG, timing, new dizzy, new coil, timing. What say the tribe about which sealant to use on the cork gasket? Wilkins says a thin coat of RTV on the D plugs (all three are leaking nicely, so going to replace them too...). Aviation form-a-gasket (which I have...and we use to seal case halves on Lycoming and Continental aircraft engines...and a silk thread laid in it, believe or not...) or some other goop?

Next next up: have new spitfire .70 MC coming and Ezbleed pressure bleeder. Thinking at this point, going to disconnect all the bundys going to the wheel cylinders, rebuild the calipers with stainless pistons I have on hand and new seal kits and greenstuff pads on the way, hook up drain lines to all the cylinders, open them all up and flush the old fluid out after replacing the MC, then put all back together. Replace the original rubber hoses with new armored hose, and redo the pipes on the top of the rear trailing arms. They look like they've been manhandled along the way, and I still have 22' of nickle/copper pipe to use..

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