Not being too worried about incremental weight...for a road car (unless it is things like an extra 40 lbs of dead weight at the far back end of the car, hence my moving the battery back to where it belongs/was designed to sit near the middle), the alternative is to use twist-lock fasteners (southco, from aircraft spruce) into the rubber mounts (I have a few spares from when I updated my aircraft cowling attachment). For whatever reason, on one of my previous, when I went over a bump, because the sides were a bit weak, the box would drop down into the rear. Of course, I was also carrying 50 lbs of tools and assorted crap in the box (this was in my first europa).

My last (693R), I just cut some 1/2" dowels, painted them black, and cut to length to fit into the corners of the opening down by the drain holes. Made them up after my first car show where I just used the prop rods to open up the boot and bonnet for display, and the sun helped warp both the bonnet and boot lids...had to prop them from the other side and leave the car in the sun to warp them back. Learned my lesson; two rods for the boot, two for the bonnet, and stashed them when not using along the passenger seat and tunnel.

Lots of ways to skin this. I like the idea I saw along the way; someone replaced the pins in the rear hinge with clips that you could pull out and remove the lid entirely. THAT would make access, if you were diving into the engine room, even easier while still allowing you to open and close the lid as normal. Of course, I'd add in a forward facing lip at the front flange so that curious evildoers couldn't pop the pins and remove the lid when you weren't looking..

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